Skip to content
Sprout & Spectrum

Grow Light vs Window Light

Sunlight wins on any summer day and loses badly in midwinter. The useful question is not which is better, but what your window is short by.

By Scooter M. An enthusiast who's genuinely into this. I read the manuals, compile the published specs, and do the math. No lab coat.

Published · How we pick

Sunlight falling through a window onto indoor plants on a sill

Photographs on this site are licensed stock and are illustrative of the fixture type. We do not own the units we write about.

How this page is funded: the buy links here are Amazon Associates links, and we earn a commission on qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. We have not been paid to feature anything on this page, we accept no free product, and commission plays no part in the ranking. Full disclosure.

We have not tested these units. Everything below comes from the manufacturer’s own published specifications, or from arithmetic we have shown our working for. Where a figure is not published, we say so instead of estimating one. Read the method.

Quick picks

Efficacy is photons out per joule in. Where a manufacturer publishes it we quote theirs; where they publish photon output and wattage but not efficacy, we divide and label it as ours; where they publish neither, the cell says so rather than guessing. Tap a row for the full write-up.

#ProductBest forEfficacyPrice
1
A screw-in LED grow bulb in a desk lamp aimed at a potted houseplant
SANSI 36W BR30 Grow Light Bulb
The rare grow bulb that publishes both PPF and a PPFD figure with the measurement distance attached, which is the only reason it can be sized honestly.
Topping up one sill plant1.82 umol/J (ours)
2
Linked LED strip lights mounted under a wire shelf above trays of seedlings
Barrina T5 4ft Grow Light Strips
The default seed-starting bar for good reasons — 4 ft long, linkable in series, cheap per foot — and the reason we built a coverage calculator, because Barrina publishes no photon data whatsoever.
A whole windowsill runNot published
3
A square white LED grow panel hanging above leafy seedlings indoors
Spider Farmer SF1000
Publishes PPF to two decimal places and an efficacy figure that actually divides out of it. That internal consistency is rarer in this category than it should be.
A window that gets nothing2.5 umol/J

The reasoning

Every comparison of grow lights with sunlight that opens on “nothing beats natural light” is technically true and practically useless, because it does not tell you what to do in January. The productive framing is arithmetic: your window delivers a certain daily light integral, your plant wants a certain daily light integral, and a fixture exists to close whatever gap there is.

Direct sun is not the comparison you think it is

Full midday summer sun is a very large number by grow-light standards, far beyond what any consumer fixture produces over the same area. Nobody is beating it and nobody needs to. The relevant number is not peak sun; it is the light your plant actually receives, in the position it actually occupies, over the whole day.

Three things cut that down hard: the window is glass, the plant is usually not in the beam for the whole day, and in winter the sun is both lower and up for fewer hours. Those effects multiply.

What changes between a window and a fixture
FactorWindow lightGrow light
Peak intensityEnormous in direct summer sun; small in a north-facing roomFixed, and known if PPF is published
Hours per dayVaries by season and weather; nothing you controlExactly what your timer says
ConsistencyDifferent every dayIdentical every day
Predictability before you commitRequires measurement or a full season of observationComputable from published specs
Running costFreeComputable, and usually far less than expected

The variable people miss: hours, not brightness

DLI is intensity multiplied by time, so a modest fixture running 14 hours can out-deliver a bright window that only catches sun for three. This is the most useful consequence of thinking in DLI rather than in brightness.

A dim fixture beating a bright window on the daily total

Window: suppose a plant sits in a patch reaching 400 µmol/m²/s, but only for 3 hours before the sun moves off it, plus about 40 µmol/m²/s of ambient for another 6.

DLI = (400 × 3 + 40 × 6) × 3600 ÷ 1,000,000 = (1200 + 240) × 0.0036 = 5.2 mol/m²/day.

Fixture: a SANSI BR30 delivering its published 265.58 µmol/m²/s at 1 ft, run 12 hours.

DLI = 265.58 × 12 × 3600 ÷ 1,000,000 = 11.5 mol/m²/day, over the small area it covers.

The far dimmer fixture more than doubles the window’s daily total, purely by being on longer. The window figures here illustrate the arithmetic — they are not a measurement of your room, which is exactly why the next section matters.

How to find out what your window actually gives

Without a quantum meter you cannot measure PPFD directly, and we will not pretend a phone app substitutes for one. What you can do is observational and reliable:

  • Time the direct sun. Check the plant hourly on a clear day and note how long it is actually in the beam. Most people substantially overestimate this.
  • Use the shadow test. Extension guidance on indoor plant lighting uses shadow sharpness as a rough proxy for light level: a hard-edged shadow means high light, a soft one medium, and barely any shadow means low.
  • Repeat it in December. The whole point is that the June answer does not predict the January one.

The seasonal collapse is covered properly in winter daylight loss and what to add.

What to do with the answer

If your window is genuinely bright for six or more hours in midwinter, you likely need nothing for a low-light houseplant. If it is a north aspect, or blocked, or you are looking at a plant that has been slowly getting worse every winter for three years, add a fixture and stop hoping. Size it against the gap rather than against a product page: the coverage calculator takes hours and area and tells you what a given fixture will add.

Every pick in full

A screw-in LED grow bulb in a desk lamp aimed at a potted houseplant
01

SANSI 36W BR30 Grow Light Bulb

Grow bulb

Topping up one sill plant

The rare grow bulb that publishes both PPF and a PPFD figure with the measurement distance attached, which is the only reason it can be sized honestly.

What SANSI publishes

Power draw
36 W (source)
PPF (photon output)
65.6 umol/s (source)
PPFD
265.58 umol/m2/s at 1 ft (source)
Spectrum
4000 K, 400-780 nm, CRI close to 100 (source)
Rated life
25,000 hours (source)

Our arithmetic

  • Efficacy, computed from the published figures: 1.82 umol/J
    65.6 umol/s / 36 W = 1.82 umol/J. That is roughly a third less efficient than the panels on this page — the price of a screw-in form factor.
  • Electricity used at 12 hours a day for 30 days: 12.96 kWh a month
    36 W x 12 h x 30 d / 1000 = 12.96 kWh.

What SANSI does not publish

  • Beam angle
  • Fixture dimensions

Who should skip it

Skip it if you are lighting more than one plant. 65.6 umol/s is a small amount of light spread over a cone — it lights a single specimen, not a shelf.

Linked LED strip lights mounted under a wire shelf above trays of seedlings
02

Barrina T5 4ft Grow Light Strips

LED bar

A whole windowsill run

The default seed-starting bar for good reasons — 4 ft long, linkable in series, cheap per foot — and the reason we built a coverage calculator, because Barrina publishes no photon data whatsoever.

What Barrina publishes

Power draw
20 W per fixture; an 8-pack draws 160 W (source)
Spectrum
5000 K (source)
Dimming
No; on/off switch per fixture, linkable up to 8 in series (source)
Dimensions
4 ft strip, 120-degree beam angle, 120 V AC (source)

What Barrina does not publish

  • PPF in umol/s — for any strip in the range
  • PPFD at any stated distance
  • Photon efficacy in umol/J
  • LED count per strip, and rated lifespan

Who should skip it

Skip it if you need to know what you are getting before it arrives. There is no published PPF, no PPFD and no efficacy figure, so nothing about its output can be verified in advance.

A square white LED grow panel hanging above leafy seedlings indoors
03

Spider Farmer SF1000

LED panel

A window that gets nothing

Publishes PPF to two decimal places and an efficacy figure that actually divides out of it. That internal consistency is rarer in this category than it should be.

What Spider Farmer publishes

Power draw
100 W +/-5% at 100-277 V AC (source)
PPF (photon output)
249.21 umol/s (source)
Efficacy
2.5 umol/J (source)
Stated coverage
2 x 2 ft core, 3 x 3 ft maximum (source)
Spectrum
650-665 nm, 730-740 nm, 2800-3000 K, 4800-5000 K (source)
Diodes
Bridgelux (source)
Dimming
Yes, dimming knob (source)
Dimensions
32.5 x 29.0 x 5.9 cm (source)
Rated life
55,000 hours (source)

Our arithmetic

  • Does the published efficacy check out against the published PPF?: Yes — 2.49 umol/J computed against 2.5 umol/J published
    249.21 umol/s / 100 W = 2.4921 umol/J. The published 2.5 umol/J is that number rounded. Not every brand's two figures agree like this, which is exactly why we divide them.
  • Average PPFD across its 2 x 2 ft core footprint: about 536 umol/m2/s
    2 ft x 2 ft = 4 sq ft = 0.372 m2. 249.21 / 0.372 = 670 umol/m2/s at perfect uniformity; at a 0.8 uniformity factor, about 536 umol/m2/s.

Who should skip it

Skip it if raw output is what you are buying — the TS 1000 delivers 38% more photons per second, at the cost of 50 W more draw.

Questions people actually ask

+Is a grow light as good as sunlight?
Not per unit area at midday in summer, and it does not need to be. What decides plant health indoors is the daily total, and a modest fixture running 14 predictable hours often delivers a higher daily total than a window that catches three hours of sun.
+Do I still need a grow light if I have a south-facing window?
Often not, from spring through autumn. Midwinter is the test: the sun is lower, the days are shorter, and the same window can deliver a small fraction of its summer total. If a plant declines every January and recovers every April, that is the light, and a fixture fixes it.
+Does glass block the light plants need?
Ordinary window glass passes most of the visible 400 to 700 nm range that drives photosynthesis, so it is not the main loss. Angle, duration and obstruction matter far more than the pane.
+Can I just move the plant closer to the window?
It is the cheapest intervention available and usually worth doing first. Light falls off sharply with distance from the glass, so a plant three feet back can be receiving a small fraction of what one on the sill gets.

Sources

Read next

Where this sits

This page belongs to Spectrum and PPFD, Honestly. Every figure on it is either quoted from a named published source or derived in view — the full method is on our methodology page, and how the site is funded is on the affiliate disclosure.